Yamaha
YZF600R Factory Pro Shift Kit Installation: |
There is a lot of detail in these pics. To see them in a larger format, simply click on them and they will open up
in a new window.
Again,
I'd like to thank "s1ug" on the forums. This
is his work 100% and he was nice enough to allow me to copy it to share with you.
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Note:
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The
directions in the kit have you drain the oil. I left the bike on the sidestand
and didn't remove the shift shaft. This prevented oil drainage. It also says to
remove the oil pump. However the kit does NOT have an oil pump gasket, and I refuse to NOT replace that
gasket. I like my bearing condition the way they were
when I tore it down. I do NOT relish doing a Kenny Roberts Jr. + Suzuki engine
siezure = crashola + bouncy bouncy down road. Removal of the oil pump however
WOULD make life much easier for the installation of the stiffer spring. I would
order the gasket at same time as the kit, they should get to you about same time
if you wish to remove oil pump. Just a heads up for ya. Now let's get started.
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Step
1: |
- Remove right-hand fairing.
- Remove clutch cover.
- Loosen clutch spring bolts & remove clutch
spring pack assembly.
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Step
2: |
- Remove clutch plates
and clutch actuator(shown);
attach clutch tool to inner hub, brace on footpeg.
- Use socket and breaker bar
to remove clutch hub nut using a 27mm socket.
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Step
3: |
- Remove Clutch inner
hub.
- Remove clutch outer hub bearing and roller. (seen in inset)
- Once bearing is
removed, slide outer hub to left and remove.
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Step
4: |
- Pull shift shaft (1)
towards you (out of engine) about 2 inches.
Rotate it counter-clockwise to get
it out of your way.
If pulled further out, you may need to drain oil first (or
it will do a good job itself of draining oil)
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At this point, use a ¼
inch drive shallow 10mm socket (to get around oil/water pump drive gear -seen
above on right, above the '3') remove the bolt (directly above 3) and old roller
arm(2). Note position of old spring on roller arm just below and right of the
'2' on the picture. Note also the way the roller engages the star on the shift
cam. Use care to not drop the bolt/spring/roller arm into the oil cavity
directly under it. This would be called "bad" in most shops. |
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To install the new
roller arm: |
place new spring on shaft exactly as old one was placed. Note the
higher location of the spring end. Place bolt through the hole on the new roller
arm. With new roller arm pointed straight up, place bolt (2) and roller arm in
their proper place, tighten bolt about 2 turns, enough to engage threads to hold
assembly in place. This is the hard part, you have to coordinate swinging the
new roller arm down (counter clockwise) to engage the shift cam (at 1) while
tightening the bolt up and holding the spring tension (at 3 where it holds the
roller arm), and not damaging anything. I used a medium sized screwdriver braced
on the lip outside the shift cam (near 4) to lever the new arm (on the metal
surface, NOT the roller) in place. Ensure the new roller arm is properly settled
on the head of the bolt. (notice on above picture DIRECTLY above the 'b' in bolt
there is a shoulder on the bolt that the roller arm fits on. Note also the
relative difference in size of the springs. The new spring is MUCH
stiffer. |
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After that
installation is the reverse of removal. Ensure proper location of large flat
collars on either side of the outer clutch hub. Placement is VERY important to
not screw up. The collars may stick to the hub parts as they are removed due to
adhesion of the oil.
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Torque values: |
- Bolt (#2
in above picture) 7.2ft-lbs, +Loctite.
- Hub
Bolt: 50ft-lbs, +lock washer tab.
- Spring bolt: 5.8ft-lbs
- Clutch Cover: 8.7
ft-lbs
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