Tire Changing:

I make the assumption that the person doing this has a few items:
1. a motorcycle
2. a new tire
3. a used up tire mounted on rim, removed from bike
4. tire irons (2 or 3)
5. spray soap
6. access to compressed air
7. a couple of c-clamps, at least 6" , rubber taped at both ends, with roll of tape available to renew tape when it gets damaged
8. old pepsi bottles (plastic) or similar for rim protectors
9. valve stem tool
10. 2 old bearings that fit over the axle of whichever wheel is being changed, devoid of grease, lightly lubed with WD40

Other items may present themselves as being necesary, and any other extras you deem necesary should be used as well.

note: performing this act while drunk may result in less than adequate results.

Step1: Remove tire from bike, and place it on your contrived stand for the tire dismount procedure. 3/4 OD pipe/barstock makes a good choice; it is slightly smaller than the rear axle, so the wheel will sit on it fine. Barstock prefered, but thickwalled pipe will do as well.

Step 2. Insert valve stem tool into the valve, and remove the valve stem. This will release the floodgates; air will squirt out of the tire at a fast pace.

Step 3. Place c-clamp as follows: The top part (rubber coated) on the rim on underside of tire.

The other end (part that goes roundy-roundy) goes on top, on tire, just about at the rim.

Tighten. When an airgap appears between rim and tire bead, spray area with Simplegreen or whatever soapy product you have available.

Continue to tighten c-clamp.

At some point it will make an odd noise, which is not describable. At this point you should be able to press the rest of the tire off the bead seat of the rim. You're now half done!

Flip wheel over and repeat the above procedure.

4. Place rim protectors at convenient places, about 45 degrees apart from each other.

Use the side with the brake rotor facing upwards. (note in picture I have another means of holding the tire iron, but the brake rotor works fine) Slip the iron under edge of tire, and pry it towards center of rim. This should put the lip over the edge of the rim.

Spray entire area with simple green. Ensure entire rim/tire area is wet with soapy stuff. Slide the first iron under the brake rotor to hold it steady.

5. Place second iron under tire at the other place you have the rim protector.

Pry it over as well, now a good part of the tire should be over the rim. You can slide the rim protector and iron around the tire a bit if you wish, or rotate tire so that the raised edge faces away from you.

Push the tire towards the open edge It will fold into recess of rim where you push,allowing more slack at other side. Pull the 2nd iron towards you while holding the tire steady. It should now slide right off the rim.

6. Flip the wheel over, spray area with simple green, flip it back over.

With the rim protector in place (1) use tire iron to start the second bead over edge.

Once you have it over edge, you ought to be able to slide the tire the rest of the way off. If not, look at these pics, do same procedure as first bead.

Intermission. Go get a drink, go to the bathroom etc.

7. Inspect rim, replace valve stem as desired (cut old one off, push new one through).

8. Get the new tire. Dunlop tires have a yellow dot for lightest part, you can place this dot at the valve stem. For purposes of this example, Iam using the UPC code on this tire as the 'dot'.

Also ensure the arrow for tire rotation is situated corrrectly. IE facing correct direction. It would suck to get nice new tire on and notice arrow is pointed the wrong way!

9. Lube is your friend. Getting the first bead over rim is cake. Spray it down, press it on, and push it by hand onto the rim.

10. The second bead is the bear. Careful planning makes it easier, but still takes some fast handwork. Since the new tire is very stiff, it tries to expand all the way, making it difficult to get on. The trick is to keep it compressed so the bead is below the seat on the rim, IE: In center of rim. I use a few c-clamps to do this. Compress tire some on sides, then poke the edge down into center of rim, then tighten some more. NOTE: DO NOT overdo this as you could damage the tire.

Once you have one side 'anchored' (I use quick-grip and tire iron wired together intially)

Start sliding second iron around the rim. Keep the tire you have slid under edge of rim pushed in so as to maximize the slack available.

Sorry for lack of pictures at this point, as it required 2 hands to do. (and a gut pushing the tire against the rim)

The last part is hardest, be careful not to hyperextend the bead of the tire, you can damage it here as well by stretching it. You will have about 8 inches of stubborn tire that doesn't want to slide over rim.this is where you have to push hardest on center of tire, ensuring it the parts under rim are centered as much as possible, then with irons as leverage, press the rest of the tire over rim.

11. Install valve stem, spray both sides with simple green at bead areas. Verify your lightspot is where you want it, though you may not be able to rotate the tire on the rim at this point anyway.

12. Apply air pressure to seat the beads. You should hear 2 distinct pops. You should NOT exceed the pressure on the sidewall of the paticular tire to seat the bead. I didnt need more than 25 or 30 pounds on mine.

13. Install valve stem cover. Remove all tire weights and clean residue off rim. Save weights, clean residue off of them.

14. Place bearing on axle, slide it to end. put axle through rim, place other bearing on it.

15. Hang the tire up with bearings holding weight of the tire up.
16. Allow the tire to settle, and to stop turning. NOTE: Don't give it a huge spin, it wont stop for several minutes. Mark point it stops with grease marker or similar.

17. Move tire 90 degrees, hold steady, then release. If the tire stops at different spots after repeating this several times, life is good. You got lucky!

18. If it lands at same spot no matter where it starts, attach smallest weight you have at exact opposite side of rim. Use small piece of duct tape to hold it.

**note** If you're mounting up a set of Metzeler M1 tires, they have 2 red paint dots to show the lightest part of the tire to help you out.

19. Repeat 16/17/18 until tire no longer stops at same spot, or as close as you can get with the weights you have available.

20. If more than one weight is used, you might try placing one on either side of rim to maintain side-side balance. I place all mine on the left side for the rear tire, since I have an aluminum sprocket which is MUCH lighter than stock for the front and for stock rear setup, alternate.

21 Once the balance is done, make sure pressure is correct, and reinstall the new tire.

22. Ride CAREFULLY. The new tire will be slick for a while until it has been heated and scuffed in properly.

You're done! Way to go.