Lowering your bike:
So, you're a little challenged in the height department? Perhaps you'd simply like the bike a bit lower for looks or better launches in the quarter mile. Well, you found the right place. Read on, and learn how to lower your bike in about an hour or two.

NOTE: This How To was written by my man Psycho Kitty on the forums.

Just click each image to see them in a larger view.

Here's the begining shot, I'm 5'5" - 5'6", and as you can see I'm on my toes to keep her upright. Because of this, I'm going to lower the Cat by an inch and a half.

To lower the rear I got a set of adjustable link's, otherwise known as dog-bones. I got mine from Myrtle West Cycles, cost was $25.99 US + postage.

Step 1:
  • To make access to the rear suspension easier, I stripped the fairings off the cat (I'll assume most people can work this part out themselves)
  • NOTE: While this isn't totally necessary, it simply makes it easier. This mod can be done with the fairings in place to save some time.

Step 2:
  • From here you need to suspend the rear of the bike by either the rear sub-frame or in my case, the rear rack (Crude yes, but was solid and secure!) Ensure the bike is secure, last thing you want is the Cat on it's side on the floor.

Step 3:
  • Now that the rear is sitting free, here's what we are looking to replace.

Step 4 :
Simply loosen off the lock nuts from each end of the links and remove, in this pic, if you look closely at the top of the suspension link, you will see that there is limited room, based on this, my decision was to place the adjustable end of the new link's at the bottom of the suspension.

  • When I removed my original links, I found that the bolts are on a "bearing" shaft, as you can see in this pic the shaft had in fact seized and had no grease. I took this opportunity to pull both out, give them a clean and re-grease them with some high melting point, high tension bearing grease.
  • If your shart looks like this, make sure you don't skip this step!

With the links off and placed along side the new adjustable links, you can see the different holes.

- The first hole is the stock settling
- The second will lower the rear 1 and 1/2 inches
- The third will lower the rear 3 inches

Step 5:
  • Install the shaft and attach the new links (non adjustable to the top). I've only put the nut on finger tight until I have the lower links in place.

Step 6:
  • When getting the lower links into place, you will need to move the rear tyre up (as it will have dropped when you removed the original links) I placed a spanner on the rear axel bolt and lifted it up to the correct spot and placed a block of wood under the tyre to keep it in place.
  • You can also use a small floor jack placed under the swingarm and just pump it up until everything aligns.

Step 7:
  • Here both links are now attached in the 1 and 1/2 inch lower hole, I re-used the factory locking nuts and bolts, ensure these are friggen tight! The factory bolts are high tensile, so you can get them "real" tight. last thing you want is one of these coming off at speed!

  • With nuts and bolts tightened off, we have reached the half way point, drop the rear of the bike back onto the ground, next step is the front.
  • I would highly recommend you use a rear track stand or something similar to hold the rear of the bike upright and stable.
Step 8:
  • Prop the front of the bike up by wedging a block of wood under the headers. I did this as I wasn't sure what would happen when I loosened off the front forks. NOTE: If the front end isn't held up, the bike will come crashing down when you loosen the pinch bolts in the next steps. An alternative is to hold the front end up with tie downs suspended from the ceiling of the garage (that's how I did mine - thesnowgod
  • It is recommended that you do the fork tubes one at a time.

Step 9:
  • To make life easier, you can remove the clip ones to allow access to the hex bolt on the top of the triple. But that's optional of course.

Step 10:
  • With the clip on removed, I could look down the fork shaft and see the lower clamp bolt, I undid this one first, intending to use the top hex bolt as my anchor when moving the fork up. As I had removed all the front fairing (optional but not necessary), this allowed easy access to the lower bolt from the top, undoing it from under the front fairing is a tight and knuckle scraping job.

Step 11:
  • To ensure I get the correct drop at the front, I attached a peice of tape to the fork shaft, to use as a guide as it drops down.

Step 12:
  • With the lower clamp loosened off, I undid the top hex bolt, I did expect the shaft to "pop" up, but it didn't. I placed a long peice of wood on the lower clamp and gave it a few tap's with a hammer. With each tap the fork shaft raised a little bit.
  • Here we are 10-12 tap's later, as you can see the black tape makes it easy to work out how far you have moved the shaft.
  • Tighten up the top hex bolt then the lower clamp bolt. Move to the next side. Make sure the hex bolts and lower clamp bolts are friggen tight!

  • Heres the end result, both feet on the ground.
  • Now to adjust the chain and double check all the bolts are on tight.



  • On to the next problem, the side stand, the Cat looked awful unstable on the factory stand, here she looks just about upright.
  • If you use the lowest setting (as I did - thesnowgod) the bike won't even sit on the sidestand without tipping over onto the opposite side. Thankfully, I reacted fast and didn't drop her! Hindsight is wonderful so if you're reading this now, you will have saved yourself some serious issues!

Nearly upright

Step 13:
  • Not having the cash for an adjustable side stand could be a problem, unless you have an angle grinder and a MIG welder. If you cannot weld, or don't have access to someone who can, I suggest you pay a shop to do the chop for you. I removed the side stand and cut about 1 inch of metal from the lower section of the stand. My idea is to weld the foot on at a new angle to suit the new angle of the bike.
  • Another option is to simply put the sidestand in a bench vice. Using a propane torch from your local hardware store for about $20, heat the sidestand until it's red hot and then bend it until it's at the right amount to have the bike sit proper. For my bike, it's SEVERELY bent. I plan to get an adjustable stand eventually as it looks sort of funny. - thesnowgod

  • Heres the cut and welded side stand, as you can see I've gone a little overboard with the welding, but as this weld is to hold the bike up, I figure it's better to be safe than sorry.

  • A clean up of the weld with a wire brush and a couple of coats of matt black paint and it's back on the bike. Sadly the angle is not 100% in this pic, a little cut and shut and she'll be perfect.

  • And here's the Cat dressed and back on her stand.

Riding impressions:
Ok, so how does it ride???

At first ride, I found that it turned in a little qicker at slow speed, but at faster speeds, required a little more weight and counter-steering to get the corners right.

After 3 days of riding the Cat lowered, it now feels good. Over all I'm happy with my decision to do this mod too her.

Important things to note.:

I started at 9am and finished at 2pm. I had lunch and stopped on and off to double check things as I had done them.

I'm sure this could be done in 3 hours (much less if you leave the fairings and clip ons on the bike), but allow yourself the extra time in case something goes wrong.

Do not attept this if you don't have the tools or mechanical knowledge, there is a lot that could go wrong if you don't what your doing.

Most important, take your time and double check every nut and bolt.